I spent three long trips hopping around islands in Brazil. I left with sand in my bag, a few bug bites, and a big grin. You know what? Each island felt like a different mood. Some busy. Some quiet. Some wild. All very real.
If you want the unabridged play-by-play of that island itinerary, you can peek at my full travel log — Brazil Islands: my real trip notes, sunburns, and joy — for the nitty-gritty.
Let me explain.
For an even richer sense of Brazil’s coastal rhythms, skim through the stories on Brazzil Magazine before you book your boat ticket.
First stop: Fernando de Noronha — pricey, pure, and so worth it
Noronha is a small island far off the coast. I flew in from Recife. At the airport, I paid a daily park fee. That part stings a little. Up-to-date rules, entry fees, and conservation reminders are laid out on ICMBio's official page on Fernando de Noronha visitation guidelines. Before I locked in my flights, I also dove into Nomadic Matt's comprehensive travel guide to Fernando de Noronha for a backpacker-friendly cost breakdown. Food and rides cost more here too. So yeah, the bill climbs.
But the water? Clear like glass. I swam with turtles at Baía do Sueste at low tide. I watched spinner dolphins from the cliff just after sunrise. I walked down steel ladders to reach Praia do Sancho. My knees shook a bit, then my jaw dropped. The beach looked unreal. Soft sand. Green cliffs. Blue water.
I ate a cashew fruit caipirinha at sunset near the port. Mergulhão made me tear up a little. Not from the price, but the view. That glow on the water got me. I rented a buggy on day one, then switched to the bus and hitch rides. My clutch foot said please stop.
Wi-Fi crawls. Bring patience. Bring reef-safe sunscreen. The coral here is life.
Ilha Grande — summer camp with salt on top
I took a boat from Conceição de Jacareí to Vila do Abraão. Bags went in a pile. People smiled and helped me load. It felt messy and sweet, like camp check-in.
I slept in a simple pousada. Rooster at dawn. Cold shower. Big heart. I took a water taxi to Pouso and walked 20 minutes to Lopes Mendes Beach. No shops there, so I packed water and fruit. The sand squeaked under my feet. Waves rolled clean and steady. I body surfed like a kid.
A small warning: borrachudos. These tiny sand flies love ankles. Repellent with andiroba oil saved my trip. At night I ate moqueca with farofa and felt the day melt out of my bones.
I hiked to Pico do Papagaio at 3 a.m. with a guide. Cloud cover tried to spoil it. Then the sky broke open. Sun spilled out. I cried a little. Again? Guess so.
By the way, Ilha Grande hides a couple of unofficial clothing-optional stretches; if naturism tempts you, I laid out the do’s and don’ts in my honest take on Brazil’s naturist spots.
Boipeba — slow magic, no cars, yes lobster
From Valença I took a fast boat. Boipeba moves at a soft beat. No cars. Locals push wheelbarrows to carry bags. I paid a guy 20 reais to roll mine to the inn. Worth it.
At Praia de Cueira, I had grilled lobster at Guido’s place. Simple grill. Squeeze of lime. Butter fingers. I could hear the palm fronds clap in the breeze. At low tide, a small boat took me to the natural pools at Moreré. The water was a sheet of blue glass. Schools of tiny fish flashed by like silver rain.
Nights here are dark. I saw the Milky Way without even trying. Bring a flashlight. And cash. ATMs are a maybe.
Morro de São Paulo — party on one side, naps on the other
A speed boat from Salvador jostled my stomach. I reached the pier, paid a small entry fee, and climbed the long stairs up. Wobbly legs. Big smile.
Second Beach was loud and fun. Music. Drinks in the sand. People dancing like no one is watching. Fourth Beach was quiet, with warm shallow pools at low tide. I took the zipline from the lighthouse and screamed most of the way. Then I laughed hard, like a wild person.
I lost a flip-flop in soft sand and bought new ones at a small shop. Bright yellow. They squeaked when wet. Now they live in my closet, still salty.
Ilha do Mel — car-free calm with a lighthouse on top
From Pontal do Sul, I took a ferry to Ilha do Mel. No cars here either. The air smells clean, a little like seaweed and pine.
I stayed in Encantadas, near the cave. At dusk, mosquitoes clock in. I wore long sleeves and felt smart for once. I walked to Farol das Conchas for sunset. The stairs go up, and up, and up. The view pays you back. On a windy day, the waves look like rumpled sheets.
Food is plain and good. Grilled fish. Cold beer. Sleep came fast.
Florianópolis — work by day, beaches by lunch
Florianópolis is a big island city. I rented a car and learned fast: avoid rush hour on the bridge. I stayed near Lagoa da Conceição and used cafes as my little office. Wi-Fi worked. Coffee was strong. My “work brain” liked that. My “beach brain” liked that Praia Mole is close.
Joaquina had dunes, so I tried sandboarding and fell on my face. Twice. Then I got it and felt brave. I took a boat to Campeche Island for a day. The water looked like a postcard. Rangers limit folks, so buy your ticket early. For dinner, I ate oysters at Ribeirão da Ilha. Briny. Fresh. A little lemon. Perfect.
When the island crowds got thick, I hopped back to the mainland to sample Brazil’s standout urban hubs — and I spilled those city impressions in this candid roundup of Brazil’s best cities.
One small note: water can feel cold here, even in summer. I wore a rash guard and stayed happy.
Heading out solo and hoping to match with locals or other travelers along the way? Before you even pack your sunscreen, swing by optimize your dating profile for step-by-step advice that sharpens your photos, bio, and opening lines so you can spark better conversations while you island-hop.
If your itinerary eventually loops you back to the U.S. mainland — say, you’re planning a crafty detour to the beer-loving mountain town of Asheville — and you’d rather skip the small-talk apps in favor of guaranteed, top-shelf company, explore the listings at Eros Asheville Escorts where vetted, discreet companions can turn a free evening into a curated experience of local breweries, music joints, and late-night views of the Blue Ridge, making sure your post-island glow doesn’t fade the moment you land.
Quick picks — who should go where?
- Pure nature, clear water, big price: Fernando de Noronha
- Hikes, beaches, backpacker feel: Ilha Grande
- Slow days, no cars, tide pools: Boipeba
- Party plus calm, pick your lane: Morro de São Paulo
- Quiet walks, lighthouse views: Ilha do Mel
- City perks, surf, oysters: Florianópolis
What I wish I knew (so you don’t learn the hard way)
- Cash is king on small islands. ATMs run out or don’t exist.
- Tide tables matter. For pools at Moreré and 4th Beach, go at low tide.
- Noronha has daily fees. Budget that before you go.
- Sand flies bite ankles on Ilha Grande. Repellent saves days.
- Boats can get rough. Motion pills helped me a lot.
- Sun here is not cute. A rash guard beat my sunscreen.
My tiny packing list that saved the trip
- Reef-safe sunscreen and a long-sleeve rash guard
- Light scarf for wind or sun on boats
- Small dry bag for phone and cash
- Repellent with andiroba or DEET
- Flip-flops plus one pair that can handle rain
- Backup power bank (boats and buggies don’t care about your battery)
- Reusable bottle; fill up at your pousada
Costs and little logistics
Noronha: flights cost more than the rest, and food too. Plan ahead. I booked simple inns and still felt the pinch. Ilha Grande and Boipeba were mid-range if you eat where locals eat and share boats. Florianópolis can be a deal if you go off season.